Winter came in with a roar, didn’t it? If you were scrambling to find the right solution to safely (and quickly) take your dog or puppy outside in frigid conditions, you’re not alone. There are so many options to keep your puppy’s paws safe from ice, salt, and cold weather that it may be hard deciding what’s right for you. Here are a few tips to help you navigate all things winter-dog-paw-related.

Dog Booties

Depending on your dog, booties may be the best option to keep your pup’s paws protected when outside in winter months. However, most dogs hate the way boots feel on their paws. And, technically, you should spend time BEFORE winter arrives teaching him to like his booties—but, the weather is unpredictable. So, if you haven’t trained your dog to accept his booties happily, there’s still hope.

Don’t create negative associations with your dog’s boots.

As tempting as it is, don’t laugh at your dog when he’s trying to walk for the first time in boots. Your pup is emotionally savvy, and your heckling will only make him hate his booties more. And, please don’t drag your dog, ever.

If your dog doesn’t walk in boots, try crouching down—if your knees can handle it and your dog doesn’t have a bite history. This inviting posture is more encouraging to sensitive dogs than hovering and repeating “COME ON” ad nauseam. You can also encourage walking by placing amazing treats (like hot dogs, boiled chicken, or cheddar cheese) on top of your shoe. When dogs drop their heads, they naturally relax, and a dog who’s feeling at ease will more likely walk than a stressed-out pooch. If your pup still won’t budge, it’s time to make booty training a priority. Pick a time of day in the house where you merely reward your dog for wearing one boot, then two, then three.

You may also consider using a lighter weight boot. The first booty I tried with Gavin was massive because he gets so cold so quickly, and I wanted to protect his delicate paws as much as possible. But, the heft of thick-soled boots was too much for him, so I switched to MuttLuks. The fleece lining keeps his toes toasty, and I love the length of the sock which adds extra warmth. Occasionally a wayward boot slips off into the snow, but when I’m diligent about pulling the sock all the way up so there’s no gap between his toe and the boot, they stay on nicely.

If you’re looking for protection from harsh, unsafe sidewalk salt and don’t need added warmth, a lot of my dog-loving clients and friends rave about PAWS disposable boots. They’re relatively easy to get on your dog’s paws, and because they’re super thin (like a balloon), fussy pups may more quickly acclimate to wearing them.

Booty Haters

Let’s say your dog loathes wearing booties, how do you keep his paws protected? Finn loved walks, no matter how cold it was, but I knew he’d be miserable in boots. So, I used various salves and sprays over the years. The trick when using thick balms like Musher’s Secret is to cover your dog’s paws RIGHT before walking outside. Otherwise, the goop makes a mess on your floor.

However, even the thickest layer of goop was no match for some of my neighbor’s sidewalks covered in layers and layers of non-pet friendly salt. To keep Finn’s paws protected, as we approached those sections, I’d ask him to walk in the parkway rather than the sidewalk to prevent any chance the salt might work its way through the protectant and burn his paws.

When we arrived back home, I wiped Finn’s paws off with a warm, wet washcloth to assure he didn’t track in dirt and salt and to clean any remaining goop off his paws. If you forget to rub protectant on your dog’s paws before an outing, don’t use a wet washcloth. Lingering salt on your dog’s paws may be absorbed, according to a trusted veterinarian friend. Instead, wipe your dog’s paws with a dry cloth.

I’m sure you’re as ready for sun and spring as I am. However, I hope these quick tips will help keep your dog or puppy happy, safe, and comfortable all winter long.

Given that everyone with access to the internet can post their opinions or poorly researched articles, it’s tough to determine true and false information about dog behavior. Too often, folks rely on shared knowledge from family and friends, who base conclusions (that you’re relying on to keep your family safe) on one dog they’ve known, a story they heard from a co-worker, or a tragic tale they read online.

Our canine companions and two-legged loved ones pay if we’re not comparing facts or looking to scientific sources to prevent scary situations.

Read on for two myths that are commonly shared to prevent dog bites and well-founded ways to keep your family safe.

Myth Buster #1: There are no dangerous breeds.

I could tell you that I live with a dog who looks like a breed often labeled as “dangerous” and that he’s the sweetest, smushiest being I’ve ever met. I could also tell you that while two dogs who broke out of their backyard attacked us that Gavin laid there, helpless, rather than attacking back. And I could also share that my dog has volunteered with 100s of school children and hospice patients, all of whom loved him for his gentle, affectionate nature—all true.

However, I’m telling you there is no dangerous breed because I formally studied animal behavior, alongside world-renowned experts, when I obtained my master’s degree. I’ve worked with more than 3,500 dogs since 2001. And I’ve met dogs of every breed that wiggled and jiggled and I’ve also met dogs in the same breed family who scared me so badly that it took days for my nerves to recover from fear.

When we label a dog dangerous because of his breed, purely based on head, ear, or body shape—nice dogs die every minute because people overlook them in shelters. Sure, there are aggressive dogs in shelters, but often dogs are barking as you pass them because they desperately need attention and mental stimulation, that shelter volunteers can’t always provide. And these homeless dogs are locked up in a loud, strange place, with only a cold concrete floor to sleep. Once those dogs have a safe, warm home and appropriate exercise, many of them relax and become amazing family dogs.

Labeling a dog dangerous doesn’t prevent bites. Monitoring a new dog’s behavior, slowly introducing your dog to family and friends, and praising and rewarding him for making good choices, maintaining relaxed body language, and not cowering or tensing in real-life scenarios will prevent dog bites. However, not giving a dog space who’s exhibiting warning signs or allowing a toddler to corner a trembling or growling dog will put you and your family in danger, no matter what breed, color, shape, or size.

Which leads me a horrible side effect when we label some breeds as dangerous. By default, a dog who’s not that breed is automatically considered safe. What then happens is Breed A isn’t left alone with your child, because you read somewhere that dogs who look like him are conditioned to hurt people. However you deduce that it’s ok to keep Breed B in the same room with your toddler while he’s chewing on a bone because Breed B isn’t on some dangerous breed list—Breed B is fluffy, Breed B is the same breed of dog you had growing up, and he never bit anyone.

Every dog is different. Assuming a dog is safe because his physical characteristics are similar to your childhood dog puts the people you love in potentially dangerous situations.

It takes an entire year to know an adult dog, to really understand what makes him happy, scared, defensive, or none of the above, so practice common sense. Reward your dog when you walk towards him and his bone and praise your dog for any relaxed body language, even if a child is two blocks away.

Myth Buster #2: It’s not always how you raise dogs.

Yes, puppies have development periods and the more positive experiences a puppy has as he’s maturing have long-term effects on his behavior. A puppy who’s had a traumatic or scary experience around children at five months of age is more likely to develop fear-based behaviors towards children than a puppy who’s been introduced to one child at a time, at a pace that keeps him carefree.

However, dogs are intelligent, emotional, and social creatures. I’ve met countless rescue dogs that softly lean into the first person that offers a loving lap, even after being neglected and abused for years. And, I’ve seen homeless dogs with horrible scars indicating they’ve been attacked by other dogs yet, they play bow and wiggle for new dogs they meet in controlled, thoughtful introductions.

Again, the key is to use common sense. You don’t bring home a dog with an unknown history or a terribly sad past and just let him loose with your resident dogs, hoping for the best. You let them sniff each other through a fence (at a distance and butt first). You walk them together. You traipse around in large circles, on a leash (how dogs not seeking conflict approach each other) without physical contact in a neutral area—always watching body language before getting one inch closer to each other. For some dogs, the acclimation process may take weeks and months before you’re ready to let them off leash (no toys, food, or other valuable resources), but it’s worth the time to keep your precious pup safe and not send a dog who’s already experienced trauma and abandonment back to the shelter.

Every dog is different. Give your rescue dog time to take in the smells and sights of his new home before any face to face introduction, people or dog.

It may seem easy to consider a dog unsafe based on his looks or to assume puppies can’t develop behavioral issues (another myth for another day). However, once you see low-level stress signs and give your dog more time and space to acclimate to his world, you can’t unsee these subtle behaviors that will keep everyone safe.

 

What’s more adorable than a puppy dressed as a skunk or a stuffed cowboy riding on your dog’s back? For some dogs, it’s the appetizer on a miserable menu that Halloween dishes out. Read on to find out how much (if at all) your dog should be included in Halloween hubbub.

To dress up or not dress up

While you’ll likely get a lot of likes on the photo of your gussied up pup, it’s not for every dog. Many dogs dislike all the gear and gadgets (often bulky or physically restrictive) involved in elaborate costumes. However, some dogs LOVE dressing up. Every dog is different so watch your dog’s body language. If his mouth tightens, his posture appears hunkered down, or he lays on the ground with sad puppy eyes, it’s unfair to leave the costume on him and even worse to laugh while he’s silently begging you to remove the distressing duds.

If you’re unsure, start with minimal attire like our friend Indy. His bow tie, cufflink ensemble is super cute and he looks like he’s ready to join the party rather than collapsing into crestfallen costume condition. You may also notice that Indy isn’t wearing a top hat or fancy glasses. A lot of pups dislike objects on their face or head. Think before you dress up your dog to make sure his disguise is just as fun for him as it is for you.

Bottom line, if your dog looks miserable, take off his costume.

The masking effect

Once a year, your pup is exposed to people wearing imposing paraphernalia covering their eyes and causing them to move erratically, evoking confusion and fear to even the most people pleasing pet. When your neighbor’s child wears a large hat or mask, her silhouette changes—she’s no longer the same person to your dog. So, to assure everyone has a happy and safe Halloween, grab some treats and train your dog to like ghoulish gizmos. Put on your jumbo sunglasses or clown wig and reward your dog for remaining wiggly. Play a Halloween sound on your laptop (low volume) and reinforce your pup for relaxed body language.

Often when I coach folks to desensitize their pups to sights and sounds that might scare them in an unfamiliar place or with an unknown person, their response is, “I tried it but he didn’t do anything, so I stopped.” Why would you stop? You’re not training your dog to run, cower, or tremble when you put on a unicorn wig. You’re teaching him to relax when someone he knows and trusts dons a Medusa headdress so when a stranger wears the same costume, it’s less scary.

Spend five minutes a day creating positive associations with Halloween garb, so your pup is less spooked.

Trick-or-treat

In dreamland, it’s a grand idea to include your dog in trick-or-treat festivities but, as I’ve already mentioned, costumes can be downright unnerving to dogs so, a parade of masks, hats, glasses, and devilish duds coming at your dog may cause horrible trauma. Not only are you asking him to endure endless eerie ensembles but groaning, creaking, and rattling lawn decorations make trick-or-treating extra terrifying for fearful pups.

If you choose to keep your pup at home, it’s best that someone stays home with him ensuring he feels extra safe. For some dogs, kids galore at the door incite the SOMEONE’S HERE response over and over again, so plan ahead to make sure your precious pup doesn’t escape—one second of sidewalk stirring could send him scurrying into the street.

For the specially scaredy dogs (especially if you can’t stay home), it’s best to put a nice note on the door asking neighbors not to ring the doorbell. If you leave a basket of candy for trick-or-treaters on the front porch, you’ll prevent your pup from getting roused up every two seconds and still be a good neighbor.

Help your fearful or anxious dog by staying home and preventing a lot of commotion that may scare him.

While Halloween is fun for many humans, please keep these tips in mind, so your hound’s holiday isn’t a harrowing experience.